Bielenhörner *****

The west wall of the Gross Bielenhorn has some of the most beautiful routes in the Furka. The routes are challenging and often require supplemental gear placements. Less intense is the wonderful SE Ridge to the summit of the Gross Bielenhorn - incredible climbing and amazing views guarantee an unforgettable day of climbing. The climbs on the south face of the Chli Bielenhorn are mostly for hard core climbers (see extrem WEST Vol. 2).

28.8.2025
Unknown climbers have removed several bolts from the “Niedermann” and “Nolens Volens” routes on the west face of Gross Bielenhorn. The routes can still be climbed with the appropriate experience and additional equipment (double 0.3-2 cams). No bolts should be removed or added to existing routes without first consulting the first ascenders and/or rebolting. The Remy brothers opened their route “Nolens Volens” in 1987 and rebolted it themselves in 2008. They were neither asked nor informed about the removal of the bolts. There are other old and forgotten routes on the west face of the Gross Bielenhorn that could be renovated in trad style. Such an event is regrettable and counterproductive!

8.3.2023
Access to the Strahlengrat ridge and the Chli Bielenhorn from the Albert-Heim Hut is objectively difficult and arduous when the snow has melted. The glacier remnants are covered with debris and the transition to loose scree is tricky. Between 2550 m and 2700 m, there are large unstable blocks and rockfall from the Gross Bielenhorn west flank. As the seasonal snow melts, it is easier and safer to approach first in the direction of the Gletschhorn and then across the lower part of the Tiefengletscher, after which trail marks lead to the Strahlengrätli entrance. Source: SAC