Bielenhörner *****

The west wall of the Gross Bielenhorn has some of the most beautiful routes in the Furka. The routes are challenging and often require supplemental gear placements. Less intense is the wonderful SE Ridge to the summit of the Gross Bielenhorn - incredible climbing and amazing views guarantee an unforgettable day of climbing. The climbs on the south face of the Chli Bielenhorn are mostly for hard core climbers (see extrem WEST Vol. 2).

12.10.2026
After unknown climbers removed several bolts from the “Niedermann” and “Nolens Volens” routes on the west face of the Gross Bielenhorn in 2025, these have since been replaced. The routes are thus back to their “original” condition. A complete rebolting is planned for the “Nolens Volens” route.

8.3.2023
Access to the Strahlengrat ridge and the Chli Bielenhorn from the Albert-Heim Hut is objectively difficult and arduous when the snow has melted. The glacier remnants are covered with debris and the transition to loose scree is tricky. Between 2550 m and 2700 m, there are large unstable blocks and rockfall from the Gross Bielenhorn west flank. As the seasonal snow melts, it is easier and safer to approach first in the direction of the Gletschhorn and then across the lower part of the Tiefengletscher, after which trail marks lead to the Strahlengrätli entrance. Source: SAC