Parete d'Osogna ****

This gigantic wall rises high above the valley. Higher than 1000m, “Apriti Cielo” (by Marco Bassi and Fabrizio Fratagnoli) has El Cap dimensions with its 36 pitches of climbing. The first ascent was accomplished while neither encountering much choss nor having to resort to aid. From Osogna, it will take you about 2.5 - 3 hours to reach the comfy bivouac on a huge ledge. It offers basic cooking equipment. The trail to the base of the route is not always easy to follow, so don’t forget the topo! This unique wall of red gneiss has difficult and adventurous routes to climb. Not everyone will be so excited about the exposure and adventure, but if you like route finding challenges, placing gear in good gneiss, and aren’t afraid of a little air, you will come back time and time again!

15.4.2016
Silvan Schüpbach succeeded on 6.4.2016 the first free ascent of the crack roof of "Ultimo sogno". He rates the pitch with 8a+. The last 3 pitches of the route are dirty and therefore unrewarding.