Balmflue ***

With 450 meters of climbing, the South Ridge is the longest route in the Jura. An early start is prudent considering it is 14 pitches of climbing plus a substantial amount of slow going third class before topping out. The South Face routes with their East Ridge exit eat up time as well. Expect a full day. Just follow the red dots and greasy holds and route finding should be pretty straight forward. For harder climbs, the routes on the impressive tower are recommended. Expect fantastic climbing on grippy limestone. Take care on the approach. Definitely use the chains! The Balmflue is not so well known by the hard girls and boys. That is a mistake: Sector “Muchaheddin” has fantastic routes in the best pocketed rock. “Hexenhammer” (8a) and “Inquisator” (7b+), are both without question, some of the best for their grade in the Solothurn Jura. Compared to other crags in the Jura, the approach is long and arduous.